April 27, 2006
You learn much about how a patisserie, a bakery, or a panetteria functions when you show up early in the morning. As in three minutes after opening. In this city, if you get any sort of welcome, then you know it will be a good day. Such it was this morning once again at Falai Panetteria. We know from experience that the humidity can be fickle this time of year, which has great influence on the production of croissants. (Or did you think croissants were baked in a pressure- and temperature-controlled vacuum?) So as the croissants were not quite ready at 7:03 a.m., we were in a forgiving mood this sunny morning, and immediately proceeded to two dessert pastries and a wonderful pot of mint tea. Customers came and went, we read the newspaper, watched the thick car service limos and DOT trucks drive by, and then the boss himself came in. Right away he heads for the espresso machine, and deftly scoops two small spoons (or was it three?) of sugar into the espresso cup—one can imagine hardly a better way to begin a molto Italiano morning on the Lower East Side. The croissants are now ready, and this morning the almond croissant—it must be said—is perhaps the finest we have ever tasted, anywhere, whether in Europe, the United States, or that fine patisserie on Soi Silom in Bangkok. It is exquisite; the powdered sugar on top is exactly right, and three small almonds artfully pressed into the top are toasted to perfection. We speak with the boss: "I like to see people eating so early," he confesses. "So many come at twelve, not so many at this time." After some amiable banter, he retreats behind the counter, and then on his way out deposits on our table a small paper bag containing yet another confection. Molto grazie we call out, and he disappears.
By eight o'clock, of course, the press of customers begins. As one similarly observes at other early-morning destinations such as Ceci-Cela or Dean & DeLuca, most orders are quite mundane: coffee with milk, sometimes a latte, a croissant here and there. We hate to reveal secrets of how to have an utterly tranquil morning, but as the sunlight beautifully streams into Falai Panetteria right around eight o'clock at this time of year, a more enjoyable breakfast destination can hardly be imagined.
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Posted on 4/27/2006
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April 12, 2006
Interestingly, New York has 1/10th (i.e. 5 out of 50) this year, but none in the top five. It comes as no surprise to gastronomes that Adria's El Bulli in Spain, one of the most famous kitchen laboratories, has ranked at #1. More surprising is how a number of top California restaurants have slipped: Alice Waters' Chez Panisse in Berkeley went from #13 to #20; David Kinch's Manresa disappeared entirely (previously #38); and the French Laundry went down one rung, from #3 to #4. New entry per se shot up to #8; Jean Georges fell from #9 to #16; Daniel clocked in at #18 (missing last year); Le Bernadin ranked #32 (missing last year); and Gramercy Tavern hit #45 (way down from #15). WD-50 and Spice Market missed the list this year. Spain jumped from 4 to 6 entries, a very impressive feat. Missing this year were Hong Kong and Switzerland, which each fell from 1 to 0. France, of course, had a full 1/5 of all entries (i.e. 10) both this year and last. Last year's London-centric list, which clocked in with a whopping 14 UK entries, has been pared down to just 4. Curiously, Brazil and India have entered the fray, with one each.
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April 04, 2006
Want to actually make a difference for the long-suffering people of Darfur? On April 30, participating restaurants will donate 5% of their proceeds to the International Rescue Committee’s humanitarian relief efforts in Darfur and in the refugee camps in Chad. A fair number of NYC restaurants are participating. Donate $50 now and receive a free Michelin guide. And bear in mind: you'll probably get more calories at your Sunday dinner than most of these refugees will get in a week. But you'll hopefully leave the table sated with a good feeling.
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Posted on 4/4/2006
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