Chef Pierre's Reviews of new NYC restaurants

Dining Review: Setagaya Ramen

Since the demise of Honmura an, our noodle forays have mainly focused on the East Village, generally Sobaya, Soba-koh, and Minca. Yet this new contender, Setagaya, deserves particular praise for both its intriguing broth and classic style. While hot August nights might not be the most auspicious to slurp ramen, Setagaya surprises the ramen aficionado with its distinctive and authentic flavor. You won't find gyoza or much else aside from ramen on the menu here, though a starter of Edamame or nicely-pickled Oshinko are possibilities. Setagaya is all business, and here you will not spend hours contemplating your bowl or tarrying; instead, think authentic working-class luncheonette: eat it and beat it, because the line of hungry souls milling about only grows longer with every bite you take. At Setagaya the possibilities boil down to having your California-made noodles served Tsuke-men (aside) or within your soup. In these dog days of summer, Tsuke-men seems a wise choice, for the lukewarm and fascinatingly-complex broth relies on a combination of mollusks, meat bones, Rishiri seaweed, and a distinctive Vietnamese salt plus a cooking process right out of the cult-classic movie Tampopo. Chunks of char-grilled pork float in your bowl, and dipping the cool noodles in this broth allows you to reach a certain mental state just short of nirvana. Several well-known Japanese beers are (when available) augmented by lesser-known brews, and for entertainment a flat-screen television monitor further evokes Tampopo with its continuous broadcast of Setagaya chef Maejima engaged in ramen-cooking competitions. photos Copyright © 2007 NewYorkCity.com

Tags: honmura an, ramen, setagaya, sobakoh minca, sobaya

Dining Review: Pomaire

How to celebrate the longest and sometimes hottest day of the year? Five years ago, we were shivering in the freezing rain of beautiful Santiago, Chile, and thought we might celebrate this anniversary by visiting New York's most authentic Chilean restaurant, located in the heart of Midtown's Restaurant Row. The charming owner-host, Denic Catalan, came over to suggest a number of fine Chilean wines to match our food selections, and we decided on a tasting of three reds and three whites to sample a few of his excellent bottles on offer. If you are unfamiliar with the famous Enoteca on the Cerro San Cristóbal high above Santiago, then Pomaire is the place to begin. For the uninitiated, Chilean wines represent not just great values, but also a diverse range of splendid varietals ranging from Pinor Noir to Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. You might start your meal with seafood, for a number of offerings nicely evoke this Pacific nation: piquant ceviche, fried spicy shrimp, broiled sea scallops, Chilean salmon tartar, and steamed Chilean mussels with raw clams. Or perhaps enjoy seafood, cheese or beef empanades, all delicately flavored and baked to the proper golden brown. Avocado stuffed with chicken salad as well as celery with avocado salad are popular items, as are the seasonal vegetable salads that Señor Catalan reminds you are selected from daily trips to the Greenmarket. While our northern hemisphere pre-solstice dinner felt a bit warm for Pomaire's excellent caldillo de congrio (fish soup), we noticed it remains a warm-weather favorite in addition to a number of organic chicken dishes. But repeat trips to South America remind us that big meat dishes are what we crave, and the bistec a lo pobre—which we found throughout Chile—satisfies even the biggest hunger, a huge hangar steak with fried onions, fried eggs and potatoes. Just seeing this steak at Pomaire transports us back to Valparaiso, the historic maritime city with its many funiculares that haul passengers up and down the steep hillsides with winding streets. With a commanding view of the Pacific from our table, we watched an elegant woman of a certain age devour a huge bistec a lo pobre with great gusto. However, we instead opted for the mar y cordillera, the roasted marinated pork tenderloin and mushroom crab cake, an enormous portion with attractively-served chunks of pork cooked to perfection, along with potatoes Provençal, callampas mushrooms in a Port wine sauce. The potatoes were crisp and buttery, the mushrooms utterly divine. In addition, the traditional Pulmay, known otherwise as the feast from Chiloé (the archipelago in southern Chile), was a most festive dish of mussels, clams, potatoes, smoked pork and chicken stewed in broth and white wine. Señor Catalan of course features a number of other hearty traditional plates, including a divine seafood au gratin, the highly-regarded pastel de choclo (meat and corn pie), and a half-dozen other seafood dishes. Or you might opt for the Maipo valley roast beef, nicely seared with a fine Cabernet demi-glaze. Perhaps a lomo al champinon, grilled sirloin with potatoes Provençal and that wonderful Callampas mushroom sauce? And do not overlook the costillar, pork ribs in Chilean spice rub with mixed mashed vegetables charquican with lard and paprika reduction. Little wonder that Pomaire's Prix Fixe menu is consistently ranked one of the top ten deals in the Theater District, which we can easily understand given the high quality of ingredients and generous portion sizes. Moreover, the 60-seat dining room also features a full bar, which offers great cocktails including the ever-popular variations on Pisco, a national drink beloved in both Chile and Peru. Several pasta, vegetarian and side dishes round out the menu, as do a number of typical desserts such as thousand-layer cake and crepes with manjar sauce. But most importantly, it is the compelling charm and irresistible tranquility that make dining at Pomaire such a rewarding experience. With little of the hustle and none of the tourist-trap atmosphere you find at other Restaurant Row venues, Pomaire remains one of Midtown's best-kept secrets. And where else would you find Pablo Neruda's dessert on the menu?

Tags: denic catalan, pomaire, restaurant row, theater district

AIWF Champagne Gala 2007 at the Pierre Hotel

A fine opportunity to sample the cuisine of several of New York's finest chefs, the annual Champagne Gala of the American Institute of Wine & Food of course also represented a splendid chance to sample numerous extraordinary wines—mostly of the sparkling variety. Held this past Tuesday night at the Pierre Hotel, the black-tie event featured a lavish menu including duck and foie gras by Jean-François Bruel of Daniel, strip loin and short ribs by Floyd Cardoz of Tabla, Chilean Sea Bass marinated in sake lees, and one of the ever-intriguing desserts by Nicole Kaplan of Del Posto. Doubtless you want to know more about the wine and Champagne selections: For the reception, Champagne Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV was served with passed hors d'oeuvres ranging from caviar on blini to seared tuna, miniature crab cakes, and a splendid roasted baby lamb chop. The Prélude represents a blend of 50% Chardonnay from Avize and Le Mesnil sur Oger in the Côte des Blancs, and 50% Pinot Noir from Bouzy and Ambonnay in the Montagne de Reims. A magnificent Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2000—in a handsome bottle of 18th-century design—accompanied J-F Bruel's duck and foie gras. Typical of Restaurant Daniel style, the attractive minimalist presentation offered multiple flavors in this clever Ballotine. The Comtes de Champagne Rosé ranks along with the Perrier-Jouët Blason de France Rosé as one a most intriguing vintage Rosé and superbly augmented this dish. There followed a truly stupendous Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1998, paired with Hoyle's Chilean Sea Bass. This Blanc de Blancs is indeed aptly known as the "ultimate expression of the Taittinger style, a Champagne of great refinement, elegance and delicacy," and was truly a highlight of the evening. The subtly-flavored sea bass reminded us of why Nobu 57 consistently remains a top seafood destination in Midtown. A powerful 2003 Sardinian Agricola Punica Barrua from Isola dei Nuraghi, whose grapes were sourced from two distinctive vineyard sites at Barrua and Narcao, accompanied Cardoz' spice-crusted beef strip loin and pulled braised shortribs. Do keep your eyes on this Sardinian winery, and certainly read more about the viticulture of this fascinating region. Cardoz' Tabla always impresses with its many fine offerings, and as big fans of Goan cuisine (especially hard-to-find pork vindaloo) these two hearty beef preparations were well-augmented by the Agricola Punica Barrua. The intriguing selection from Artisanal Cheese stood up nicely to a 1986 Delaforce Colheita Porto, a wonderful tawny aged 19 years before being bottled in 2005. We sampled cave-aged Tilset from Brovetto; fresh chevre from Catapano; Kunik from Nettle Meadow; and Baudolino from Bobolink. But the pièce de résistance surely was Nicole Kaplan's dessert, a playful creation of chocolate caramel tart, roasted banana ice cream accompanied by caramel popcorn and peanut butter powder, accompanied by Champagne Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV. Interestingly enough, the Nocturne Sec consists of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier wines from over 35 crus and a range of reserve wines. At this point, perhaps it is worth recollecting that most Champagnes are produced as Brut wines, with residual sugar of 15 grams or less per liter. (Extra Dry or Extra Sec wines range from 12 to 20 grams, Sec wines from 17 to 35 grams, and Demi-Sec from 35 to 50 grams.) Consequently, the Nocturne Sec was a fitting finale matched with this Del Posto confection. We were pleased to learn earlier this week that Mario Batali has a new landlord at 85 Tenth Avenue, one more understanding of the tremendous resources Batali put into this august establishment. Not only was this one of the more exciting black-tie events in New York City, but given their focus on food, Champagne and wine, AIWF fortuitously did not makes us sit through long-winded speeches or hours of dedicatory epistles penned for worthy oenophiles. Even nicer, all proceeds went to the Days of Taste program, worthy educational programs and scholarships.

Tags: aiwf, champagne, days of taste, del posto, floyd cardoz, harpersfield, jean francois bruel, matthew hoyle, nicole kaplan, nobu 57, pierre hotel, restaurant daniel, tabla, taittinger

Dining Review: Rosanjin Tribeca

The postcard from Japan made us rather jealous: "We have smiled under the cherry blossoms here in Kyoto. The juxtaposition of old and new is stunning—telephone poles along the ceremonial path to an urban temple, an age-old house abutting a bustling galleria." In contrast, we spent sakura matsuri in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Some days later we enjoyed our celebratory kaiseki meal at Rosanjin Tribeca, where we found our colleague's comments about Kyoto quite reflective of the tranquil glory of this handsome restaurant. For the stunning juxtaposition of Japanese tradition and modern elegance is more pronounced here than elsewhere on this continent. We patiently waited several months for the former delivery-only establishment—with its attractive cedar bento boxes—to open the dining room, and then waited additional months to see how the service and presentation would measure up in this sedate space with a mere eight tables. Greeted by name upon our arrival by the hostess, the dashing owner/host Jungjin Park then introduced himself and sat us across from a stunning floral display whose cherry blossoms were augmented by a number of flowers painstakingly arranged according to ikebana principles. As with the many dishes we would consume, harmoniousness was the defining principle at work here, and it was no surprise that a group of three stylish Japanese ladies asked Mr. Park to pose for a photograph with them in front of the arrangement. For this master of ceremonies has attempted to marry the aristocratic customs of courtly society—think of Lady Murasaki's 11th-century epic Tale of Genji—with the less courtly inhabitants of Manhattan, on whom many of these intricate details are sadly lost in translation. We noticed Mr. Park repeatedly fiddling with the futuristic console that sits squarely embedded in the red brocade silk wall, adjusting the volume of the minimalist music, which at times ranged from the familiar drums of a Mahayana Buddhist ceremony to John Cage-like syncopated rhythms. Mr. Park discreetly suggests to his guests to remain focused on the experience by avoiding excessive talking during each course, and he is quite right: There are so many details to be consumed. Our New York predilections for loquaciousness and gregariousness do not match well with a multi-course meal intended for a near-meditative reflection. The colleague in Japan had regretted being rather sleepy during the kaiseki meal in Kyoto after spending hours at the spa, yet clearly that contemplative mood brought on by relaxation was far better suited for kaiseki than a BlackBerry-wielding banker after business hours. Indeed, our propensity for prolixity—we kept chatting over endless cups of sake, silently refilled after nearly every sip—made it at times difficult to focus reverentially during the more than two hours at the table. This meal offers so many diverse flavors and textures—a crunch here evoking a scene from the movie Tampopo, a composition there recalling a charming moment long ago at the Osaka airport. At the chic and sleek tables, very little visually distracts you from the beautiful plates, bowls and crystal. A mere two simple framed works of art—recall Hokusai's many views of Mount Fuji—assist in transporting you mentally to another place. Whereas in certain Mahayana Buddhist practices you might focus on meditational deities such as Kalachakra, at Rosanjin we stared repeatedly at the deceptively simple yet lush surroundings to concentrate on the gustatory senses, here stimulated vastly more than at two other recent tasting menus—the subject of a forthcoming blog. (A pro pos Kalachakra, oddly enough at the Abingdon Square Greenmarket last Saturday we spotted a Tibetan man delivering crates of asparagus wearing a t-shirt celebrating this meditational deity.) Our Sakizuke course set the stage, a stupendous grilled Yakishimo scallop with lotus root and kinome along with tender baby octopus and firefly squid and an attractively-arranged variety of fresh vegetables and herbs. The Rape Blossom, tofu skin and Kazunoko (codfish roe) with vinegar syrup that has Karashi paste with caviar on the top were additionally superlative. Visually this dish seemed almost a pity to eat, and we would not be surprised given the recent trend of photo food blogging to learn of diners—however gauche—taking photographs of such extraordinary dishes. We proceeded to the Wanmori, an appreciable piece of grilled red snapper with fried tofu and kinome in a masterful fish broth, a harmonious balance of flavors enahnced by the kinome. The effect was a fascinating contrast to the previous course, both with the perceptible effect of the aesthetic change of porcelain and with the presentation technique. For the uninitiated, this is a world apart from the usual experience of fine dining. It is indeed the World of the Shining Prince updated to reflect 21st-century sophistication. At this point we do recall why Mr. Park has named his restaurant after the well-known Japanese restaurateur from the turn-of-the-last-century, Rosanjin Kitaoji. For this gentleman gourmet was also an adept of ceramics, and at this Rosanjin each plate and each bowl, along with the handsome cedar chopsticks, reflect the pleasingly ingenious aesthetic taste so crucial to kaiseki. Whereas American porcelain plates simply have become vastly larger in size or a bit oblong in shape in recent years, the ceramics served forth at kaiseki and specifically here at Rosanjin alone merit extended description. There followed Mukoukuze, when we noted Mr. Park took particular delight in reminding us how one can tell a highly-trained chef from an amateur: by his knife and by the cut marks on the fish. You will find few places in the United States that so adroitly serve forth such sashimi, and we were delighted with Tori Gai (leaf-shaped clam), Hirame (fluke), Ika (squid), and the fascinating Tairagai preparation, a giant clam cut and served with buttery fatty Toro. (Were you to contrast such cuts with the flash-frozen and sodden sushi made by eager Tibetans at Whole Foods Markets, it would be akin to comparing Le Cirque and McDonald's.) Here we must proceed immediately to discussion of the next course, the Nakazara, astounding fatty Toro that was the freshest we ever ate outside of Japan. It seemed as though it dissolved on the tongue, stimulating the taste buds in multiple ways that few other raw foods do. We were introduced last year to a fellow who keeps his boat in New Jersey and makes occasional forays far out in the Atlantic Ocean to snare his own tuna, boasting that he begins consuming it before his boat returns to shore. Rosanjin's toro reminded us both of this story as well as Tokyo's giant Tsukiji central fish market, a place that ought to belong in those popular new books about the 1,000 places you definitely must see before you die. Another option for this course was Anago, a spectacular sea eel, not to be confused with either Unaga (river eel) nor the pathetic green moray familiar from our scuba diving experiences. Although much has been written about the $150 price of this multi-course meal, at this point it was quite clear that the cost alone of these fresh ingredients flown over from Japan leaves little in the way of profit for Rosanjin. After emerging from a near-coma brought on by this exceptional Toro, we upgraded to a different type of sake, and of course noted how the decanting took place effortlessly into an even more attractive vessel than the previous. Cups again were refreshed silently after nearly every sip, affording us the opportunity to imbibe with great gusto. For the next course, the Shiizakana featured one of our all-time favorites, a fried soft shell crab with erengi mushroom. Having eaten soft-shell crab everywhere from grandmother's table to inland Sichuan province to coastal southern California, outside of Japan this may well be the most exceptional soft shell crab to date. Still envious of the colleague who had kaiseki in Kyoto, we also recalled the friend who phoned recently about going abalone diving at Stillwater Cove near Jenner Beach in northern California, one of the lost pastimes of late adolescence during a three-month stay there so long ago. We savored every bite of those rare mollusks, which we caught by prying them from underwater rocks with a flat abalone iron, then later preserved the mother-of-pearl in tribute to those tough dives unaided by oxygen tanks. So it was during our Yakizakana course, consisting of phenomenal grilled river salmon with steamed abalone and marinated apricot, which reminded us of the tremendous effort both in procuring and preparing these delicacies. Our former colleague in Switzerland, who yearly flew to Alaska to fish for salmon, told us how the Balair flight would go nearly empty from Zürich and return nearly at its maximum load, for so many sportsmen had packed coolers full of their great catch. All these memories flowed forth during the ephemeral experience of savoring this course. As the great teacher Patrul Rinpoche noted in The Words of My Perfect Teacher (Kunzang lama'i shelung), even the finest meal turns to ____. Thus these fleeting moments are to be savored, reminding us of the transitory nature of both existence as well as the kaiseki meal. The final fish course, Hahchi, consisted of Aburame (flown in from Japan) in a noteworthy fish broth, and here we became somewhat wistful when contemplating the balance of flavors and textures. Though we have had many fine experiences next door at Takahachi Tribeca as well as some unfathomably rude service at Tribeca's bridge-and-tunnel Nobu (now a mere farce of its former self), we think Tribeca is the ideal location for Rosanjin. For on this unhurried street in this least-populated neighborhood of Manhattan, time appeared to stand still—yet we had already been at the table two hours! We thought about some intriguing experiences in the previous year, dining with bankers from China, Hongkong and Singapore at a handful of New York's finest restaurants. For unfamiliar as they were with haute cuisine, service at places such as Daniel featured ever-patient servers graciously explaining these very unfamiliar dishes to our foreign guests. Similarly, we recall several elegant meals—including one prepared by the most famous chef in Sichuan, who took time to sit with us and declare why his spinach dan dan mien and má lá tu ding (spicy peppery diced rabbit) were utterly incomparable. So it goes with Rosanjin, where at a price you enjoy the premium of a dining room with merely eight tables, where the sole purpose for explication by Mr. Park was clearly to enhance our enjoyment of these obscure and rare ingredients. While some Korean and Japanese restaurants (especially in Los Angeles!)—as did Chinese restaurants thirty years ago—inform you when they feel a dish will be unsuitable for you or that certain ingredients might not taste harmonious to you (spicy jellyfish comes to mind), this certainly was not the case at Rosanjin, where graceful explanation made the kaiseki experience all the more elegant. Then at last came the final course prior to dessert, served in beautiful lacquer ware. As aficionados of lacquer, we focused first on this stunning service, followed by this combination of Tomewan, Shokuji and Kounomone: blended miso soup, tofu, mitsuba, sansho, Unagi IImushi (mixed and steamed sticky and regular rice with kinome on top), and pickles. But here one aspect of service deserves fair criticism: as the master of ceremonies does have other guests to attend to, and as he is the only explicator of your meal, we found three courses where we had to balance his desire for us to eat immediately with our patient wait for him to give us an explanation of what precisely we were about to consume. Perhaps a printed menu of some sort would serve both as a navigational aid during the meal and pleasant souvenir of an unforgettable experience? On the other hand, it would be distracting, as we recently learned at a theater performance where the director declined to hand out programs until after the show. At this point, it became clear the extent to which a small staff labors endlessly in this artful form of service. Our dessert arrived but two minutes after the final course, and the check arrived, unasked, just after dessert dishes were clear. The staff by then seemed exhausted, whereas we felt infinitely refreshed, perhaps aided by all that sake and the delightful tea we consumed with the dessert. Or perhaps we had simply imbibed too much sake, hence the rush to keep us on schedule? The dessert fortunately did not cloud our memory of dinner, a simple cup of mango juice as well as a tofu and chocolate blancmange with fresh fruit. Yet true to form, this fleeting experience did not dissolve into memory; Mr. Park graciously emailed our menu as well as an even more luxurious kaiseki menu on offer over the weekend. For if you are not satisfied enough with this tribute to the greatest meal in Japan, simply telephone or write ahead to request additional courses. With the sole exception of wines, anything seems possible. All images copyright Rosanjin Tribeca.

Tags: jungjin park, kaiseki, nobu, rosanjin tribeca, sakura matsuri, takahachi

Tastings From the Kingdom of Navarra

Navarra is the most intriguing region of Spain you've likely never heard of, bordered by France to the north, Rioja to the south, Aragon to the east, and Basque country to the west. Close to both Bordeaux and Bilbao, one-third of its population lives in the capital, Pamplona, which swells annually during the famous running of the bulls. Given its diverse landscape—which mirrors that of larger Spain—this tiny territory that covers only 60 miles from north to south and represents less than 1.5% of Spain's population produces some intriguing wines, splendid dishes, and clearly distinguished chefs. Though Navarra has in recent decades had difficulty competing with neighboring Rioja, the famous Guía Peñin guide to Spanish wine as well as various websites and blogs can assist with planning your tastings. Although the rich history of the Kingdom of Pamplona, later the Kingdom of Navarra, extends back to pre-Roman times, perhaps its dreamy Renaissance setting became best known to the Anglo-Saxon world through Shakespeare's Love's Labor's Lost, whose pedantic humor also includes what was once thought to be the longest word in English (even though it is Latinate), honorificabilitudinitatibus, perhaps meaning "the state of being able to achieve honors." So it is with Navarra's wines and cuisine. Because with the profusion of tapas restaurants in Manhattan, you will soon enough become acquainted with its wonderful wines, which for now still remain a well-kept secret. Fortunately the expert sommelier from the Navarra school of wine tasting, Ana Laguna, along with Robin Kelley O'Connor, president of the Society of Wine Educators, hosted a terrific wine tasting yesterday morning in the run-up to the evening gala dinner prepared by Chef Nicolás J. Ramirez, chef-owner of Túbal Restaurant in Tafalla. Given Navarra's significance as an emerging export region—Ana Laguna accurately declares the region is "just getting on the radar"—I must state that for a 10:30 am tasting on a Tuesday, the event was quite well-attended, with around 40 wine educators and industry representatives in attendance. With a number of exciting Bodegas, Navarra has a fascinating wine tradition, thusly earning the kingdom its moniker of "land of diversity." Given its position as a pilgrimage route since the Middle Ages, perhaps modern-day wine pilgrims will also flock to Pamplona, whose famous cathedral's keystone curiously features an image of a wine cask. Although Spain remains the world's third-largest wine producer, only 2% of Spain's vineyards (roughly 25,000 hectares) are found in Navarra. The extreme climatic differences and enormous diversity of grapes seem ideal for viticulture, with its wide range of soils from the rain-soaked north to the more arid desert of the south. While it is difficult to generalize about Navarran wines—and while some splendid Chardonnay and quite interesting Merlot can be found—we fortuitously tasted several less common varietals and blends. Think: Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Graciano as well as intriguing Muscat. Although Navarra's main varietal is the Tempranillo, the quality of product can be challenging to regulate, and less yield of this delicate grape seems to indicate better results. The Garnacha has vastly underestimated potential, and Laguna rightly declares it has been "unjustifiably forgotten." We sampled the Garnacha de Viñas Viejas 2005 from Bodegas Príncipe de Viana, which had a nicely enhanced and clean flavor of oak, terrific structure and probably the most complex and splendid example of the Garnacha. Also fascinating and richly structured was José Manuel Echeverria's 21 del 10, 2004. Named after the birth date of his young daughter, this marvelous blend from Bodegas y Viñedos Alzania was an experimental wine whose appellation is not yet allowed. Some curious legal issues—the discussion of which I'll omit here—center on changing legislation and E.U. regulations, causing a fair number of traditional and modern winemakers in Navarra to simply do as they wish, which in any case they have historically always done. (Long story short, we may yet see an upper echelon V. de Pago from Navarra in the future.) Aged 12 months in French oak barrels, the 21 del 10, 2004 underscores how clearly different Echeverria's style is, and this terrific balance of flavors with a deep velvety appearance and hint of toasted spice yielded a really splendid composition, savory and complex. Any wonders about food pairings and the superb flavors of the region were immediately addressed with some tapas prepared by Chef Ramirez. The above two wines were terrific with Navarran specialities of white asparagus; quail egg and Piquillo pepper on garlic toast; and a flavorful langostino. Do take note that until your favorite tapas place carries Navarran wines, you might check with the US agent for Navarran wines, Classic Wines of Stamford, CT. An afternoon tasting then led to Chef Ramirez's special evening dinner, which was truly memorable for a number of reasons. Co-sponsored with the American Institute of Wine & Food, the dinner at the W New York Union Square was a wonderful opportunity to bring foodies, wine lovers and vinters together during Navarra Gastronomic Week. The chef's Warm Partridge & Jabugo Ham Salad represented a subtle and harmonious marriage of diverse flavors, paired with a fruity Orquídea 2006 from Bodega Inurrieta. Artichokes Fried with Tocino (Jabugo cured ham), Mushrooms, Lobster, Wild Mushroom Jus and Toasted Almonds was superb and the presentation equally impressive. Two reds we tasted worked quite well with this dish, complimenting the distinctive piquancy: first, a 2005 blend from Bodegas Bagordi called Usoa de Bagordi Vendimia Seleccionada, indeed a selection of Tempranillo (60%), Merlot (20%), Graciano (10%) and Garnacha (10%). (You'll find Bargordi's wines at Marks & Spencer should you be in the UK any time soon.) Second, the Condado de Almara Crianza 2003 from Bodegas Macaya, a moderately-priced Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Regional specialities of Navarra can be found in a handsome book titled Ayer y hoy de la cocina navarra (Then & Now of the Navarra Cookery), and Chef Ramirez's take on a Egg served in Croustillante Potato Crust, Piquillo Peppers and Garlic Toast was splendid, with this delicately poached egg uniting the other well-matched elements. Ana Laguna paired this well with a 2003 Deyo, a nice Merlot from Castillo de Monjardin whose estate lies close to the French border along the famous pilgrimage route from Paris to Santiago de Compostela. Monjardin has an intriguing microclimate, unusual even in Navarre's diverse terrain. Our next course was an even more outstanding blend of traditional Navarran flavors, Veal Cheeks with Potato Cream & Honeyed Crispy Pig Trotters. This dish alone would make you want to travel to Navarra, and was expertly matched with a 2003 Emegente Selección from Bodegas Marques de Montecierzo. There followed a cheese course, a reminder that in addition to Roncal and Idiazabal, Navarra has sheep specific to the region that produce fine, full-flavored hard and semi-hard cheeses. Finally I must mention a very special dessert wine from Viña Arbel, the 2005 Laudate Dominum, with a crisp, clean and marvelously complex flavor deriving from the small Muscat berries. (Take note: their US agent is Sabor Imports in Southern California.) Having sampled in recent years a full range of Muscat, Trockenbeerenauslese, and Sauternes ranging from 1975 Château d'Yquem to Finger Lakes ice wines, I think this young firm holds exceptional promise. Chef Ramirez created a delightful Torrija caramelizada con sopa del niño, helado de leche y burbujas de canela (Caramelised milk-soaked Bread, “Del Niño” Soup, Milk Ice-Cream and Cinnamon Bubbles) to end this wonderful event. You too might become an honorificabilitudinitatibus if you focus on these wines and keep in mind that Navarre is not just about bull-running in Pamplona.

Tags: aiwf, Ana Laguna, Jose Manuel Echeverria, navarra, Nicolas Ramirez, Tubal

Dining Review: Aroma Kitchen & Winebar

When searching for authentic Italian cuisine featuring excellent dishes paired with fine wines, Aroma Kitchen & Winebar consistently impresses for ability to provide flair and elegance in such an intimate and tiny dining room. With its tranquil atmosphere and attentive service, Aroma succeeds in serving authentic Italian cuisine, exceeding that of nearby competitors Frankie's 17 Spuntino and Centovini. A small platter of Italian cured meats as well as baked stuffed calamari with almond, shrimp, capers, fennel and parsley are terrific ways to begin your meal, though the gratin of gnocchi, sausage, fontina, and pesto nutmeg béchamel surely exceeds the other appetizers on offer. In addition, do not overlook the intriguing salads, both the rocket, pecorino, bresaola, pickled red onion and lemon vinaigrette as well as the baby spinach with goat cheese. Highly recommended are three hearty main dishes, a lamb chop with mint pesto, cannellini beans, sun-dried tomato, and capers; braised veal shoulder "spezzatino" with ricotta cavatelli, ham, and panna; and Sicilian meatloaf with herbed polenta, cipolline onion, red pepper pesto, mascarpone. Recommended desserts are sicilian pistachio crème brûlée, a warm almond chocolate cake with brandied morello cherries and zabaglione cream as well as a fine plate of traditional Italian cheeses with poached dried fruits. The list of over 120 wines nicely augment this regional Italian cuisine, and it should be noted Aroma features a prix fixe menu with three courses for $25 on Sundays, along with classical guitar accompaniment. We might compare the fair number small restaurants at which we dined in the past year: Although a number of these restaurants kept us waiting despite our always arriving punctually, here manager Alexandra DeGiorgio took unusual and sincere effort in repeatedly expressing her sorrow at our having to wait 15 minutes for the table. Very few managers take such pains—in fact, restaurants' general indifference at keeping patrons waiting underscores Aroma's commitment to its guests. Alexandra declares on the restaurant's website: "My career allowed me to hone my management skills and ensure the utmost client satisfaction." Were this only true at more New York establishments! Finally, do note Aroma's private lower-lever dining room featuring stone, wood and glass elements. With dimly-lit chandeliers and highlighted by votive candles, the communal wood table of dark mahogany creates a charming atmosphere. As this private dining room is reached via a narrow staircase and winding catacombs, the journey seems rather uniquely northern Italian—perhaps reminiscent of Venice.

Tags: Aroma Kitchen Winebar, centovini, frankies spuntino

2006: A Year in Review(s)

In brief: Outsized gastronomy became an understatement in 2006, as Manhattan restaurants grew ever larger. We witnessed the pan-Asian explosion as well as the celebrity chefs (and their owners) expanding further afield in Manhattan as well as branching out to Las Vegas. With a healthy dose of chefs on the move, we also heard endless stories of chefs being fired or replaced, of new management, of new names (such as Izakaya Ten, formerly Anzu, formerly D'or Ahn), and of the endless shuffling of restaurants in the Grace and Jack Lamb empire of East Fifth Street and lower Second Avenue. Average service at higher prices was again a hallmark of this year, particularly the much ballyhooed reopenings of old favorites such as Le Cirque and Waverly Inn. Given the success of the film Supersize Me, one could laud the trend towards new restaurants serving mostly small plates, yet react with befuddlement as to how so many new steakhouses, or places serving mostly burgers, cupcakes or macaroni and cheese could stay in business. Perhaps the backlash against atherosclerosis will be the trend of 2007 and tofu will reemerge as a major contender. Highly unlikely, however. A number of new ventures flopped after a few months (most notably Sascha), and still others found it tough to compete in a crowded and expensive marketplace (i.e. Shopsin's), and still others launched TriBeCa mini-me branches (i.e. Wolfgang's Steakhouse, Mr. Chow, Turks & Frogs). Given how many kitchens are now staffed mostly by Mexicans, the great wonder remains as to why the finest regional dishes of Mexico—from the Yucatán to Baja—are still so difficult to find. Given the strong American appetite for food from south of the border, how can the scandalous Taco Bell or merely semi-authentic La Esquina remain so popular? Probably because the eager young workers from Puebla are too busy making French croissants at 2 a.m. or chopping vegetables in a brasserie at dinner time. Then again, semi-authentic was a major trend this year, given the strong showing of overhyped restaurants such as Chinatown Brasserie. Long Island surf food (Ditch Plains) struggled to ride the wave of Manhattan; the much ballyhooed E.U. European Union survived endless problems; and two little cheese shops that could (Formaggio Essex and Saxelby Cheese) made a profound impact on dairy consumption on the Lower East Side. Nina Planck's real food markets became a contender in the Greenmarket business. Authentic Thai food has become tantalizing closer; wine bars as well as the enlarged new Astor Wines and Union Square Wines expanded our palates; and top-quality ice cream suddenly appeared in many places, even at a Whole Foods gelato bar. New barbecue joints appeared out of the woodwork, yet no contenders matched the supersized cocktails of Dallas BBQ. Chocolate in all forms became so popular that we even invented a walking tour for roaming chocoholics. On to our new favorite picks for 2006, in no particular order: Boqueria for its stylish tapas; L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon at the Four Seasons for its lavish small plates; Degustation for its more discreet small plates; Frankies 17 Spuntino for its old-world charm and uncomplicated fare; Falai Panetteria for exquisite breads and desserts; Le Cirque for all the usual reasons; and Room 4 Dessert for Will Goldfarb's seminal desserts. (Do ensure you listen to Jennifer Leuzzi's amusing interview with Goldfarb that can be heard here.) Finally, although we avoid all prognostications for the new year, we do eagerly await Pichet Ong's P*Ong dessert restaurant, Landmarc's new steakhouse in the Time Warner Center, and about three dozen other contenders that will emerge during this exceptionally mild winter.

Tags: Boqueria, Chinatown Brasserie, chocolate, Degustation, ditch plains, Falai Panetteria, Formaggio Essex, Four Seasons, Frankies Spuntino, Grace Lamb, greenmarket, Jack Lamb, Jennifer Leuzzi, Joel Robuchon, La Esquina, Le Cirque, Mr Chow, nina planck, Pichet Ong, Room 4 Dessert, Sascha, Saxelby Cheese, TurksnFrogs, Will Goldfarb, Wolfgangs Steakhouse

Dining Review: Gordon Ramsay at the London

Three-star Michelin ranked Gordon Ramsay now has his first venue on this side of the Atlantic at the London NYC (formerly the Rihga Royal hotel), featuring intimate modern French dining that takes cues from its renowned London counterpart. The casual bar area of the restaurant, The London Bar, is based on Ramsay’s exciting Maze restaurant on Grosvenor Square in London, featuring daily specials as well as a variety of tasting dishes that allow guests to design their own menus in a relaxed and informal environment. Designed by internationally acclaimed designer David Collins, the space combines classic British style with Manhattan verve. The dining room seats a mere 45, keeping with the current trend of minimal seating and lavish menu selections such as at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon at the Four Seasons. The bar and casual area seat 95, and expanding on Le Cirque's new high-end bar dining concept, tea service will be available in addition to breakfast, lunch and dinner. As at the Four Seasons, signature dishes are also be available from room service. (Full menus are available on the restaurant's website.) A splendid addition for which Ramsay is well-known in London is the Chef's Table in the kitchen. Moreover, three private dining rooms respectively seat 70, 50 and 20 guests. Chef de cuisine Neil Ferguson, formerly head chef under Angela Hartnett at The Connaught, was formerly sous chef at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. Ferguson previously worked at numerous three Michelin-starred restaurants including L’Espérance and L’Arpège in France. So in this year of multiple top-tier openings, how does Ramsay’s London distinguish itself? Ramsay seems to be all about the jewel box: in decor, in plates and in silverware placed on western version of the chopstick holder. The space itself resonates opulence yet lacks the dynamic tension of its other hotel counterparts—whether Le Cirque 2.0 or Robuchon or (pure speculation here) Alan Yau’s forthcoming Park Chinois. In a departure from usual procedure, we focus here entirely on dining in the bar area, and specifically on the tiny plates for which Ramsay is well-known. For while this prevailing trend of miniature gastronomy continues to delight New Yorkers, Ramsay’s food has a range of resonances, and as at Robuchon some small dishes clearly stand out, whereas others are merely agreeable: Salad of globe artichokes with truffle mayonnaise and rock chives delights, as does a powerful squash risotto with a truly heavenly taste. (One really wants to try more of it as the portion is a mere four tablespoons.) Ramsay’s BLT amazes—although the novelty of this concept has clearly worn off—with tomato gelée, bacon and onion cream and a lettuce velouté in a martini glass. A white onion velouté with duck ragoût and shaved pèrigord truffle with truffles impresses even more for its complex flavors, yet marinated beetroot with ricotta, pine nut and cabernet sauvignon dressing seems rather pedestrian, indeed with too much ricotta. More meaty offerings include a quite good lamb cutlet with braised neck, cos lettuce, bacon, onions and ras el hanout as well as beef “tongue ‘n’ cheek” with caper and raisin purée, ginger carrots, both quite hearty and featuring contrastingly spiced and flavored meats. A twice cooked poussin with prune purée and foie gras velouté is also worth a try. Seafood selections include a Maine lobster and confit chicken Caesar salad with parmesan shavings which was rather good but not overwhelming. A Pacific halibut with squid, creamed cauliflower, spiced beef and braised leeks offers a stunning combination, with this marvelous piece of fish topped with chopped squid and the flavorful slow-cooked beef underneath. The Nantucket Bay scallops roasted with spices, golden raisin purée and cauliflower beignets has a succulent marriage of flavors. Finally, the hearty roasted brill with provençale cockle vinaigrette and pesto truly impresses, probably New York’s most exquisite tapa at present. Multiple Ramsay sightings made for a most enjoying evening, and the wine list featured some intriguing selections, mostly north of $100. Given the rather lackluster service, we omitted coffee and desserts, though it is worth noting the desserts fetch an average price—nowhere near the heavy-hitting items at Le Cirque or Robuchon. Somehow the vanilla rice pudding, Valrhona chocolate fondant, and peanut butter and cherry jam sandwich with salted nuts and cherry sorbet struck us as a tad pedestrian. Look for a full review of the multi-course chef’s menus at a future date.

Tags: four seasons, gordon ramsay, joel robuchon, le cirque, london nyc, neil ferguson

Dining Review: Degustation

East Village superstars Grace and Jack Lamb have a small place next to their crown jewel (Jewel Bako), where tapas stretch across Spain through France. Creative chef Wesley Genovart follows the latest trend of working in an open kitchen, and the results are most impressive. The sleek bar and dreamy lighting are so seductive you might just feel hypnotized, but the attentive staff see to it you are kept alert, both through their elegantly-orchestrated maneuvers as well as the vivaciousness of the other guests. For eating at Degustation resembles less the current fad of grazing and more of the nuanced tasting that is becoming the hallmark of small spaces where quality is prized above quantity (be it the number of guests or size of portions). Chef Genovart has a brilliant take on traditional tapas fare, creating starters dramatically reduced in size but big on taste. It is a joy to watch him and his crew preparing for example, four tiny croquetas, which diners can observe being placed with exactitude on a long rectangular white plate. Or an innovative take on the traditional Spanish tortilla, here reduced in size and structure and resembling perhaps a tiny petit four, a wonderous tiny box of provocative and harmonious flavors. Watching the sous-chef create the tiny roast beef sandwich by first cutting out a round of bread, then later deftly stacking beef, then chopped greens atop this tiny round, you sense so much more going on around you. Indeed, this world of gastronomy in miniature—along with a tiny, open kitchen—requires advanced tools, dexterity and grace. Should you be lucky enough to sit just where the sous chef prepares his plates, you might feel that you've proceeded to a higher plane, where the courtly world of the shining prince comes vis-à-vis with the sushi chef's visage. But these dynamics are so clearly different than at a sushi bar, and you will find many forces within this dining room competing for your attention, especially given how you and your companion sit side-by-side. Your eyes dart around here to a curious globe with alabaster seas, there a collection of wines pleasantly arranged, with the minimalist décor further afield. The culinary knowledge imparted to the professional diner here—mixed nicely with a few glasses of wine from the excellent selection—ought to alone be worth the admission price to this temple of (dare we say?) harmonic convergence, where precision meets elegance and technique marries essence. As the meal progresses, you get the sense that the triage taking place around you is both dramatic and sedate: grapefruit wedges being broiled with a miniature blowtorch. Gorgeous head-on shrimp resting in preparation for their final arrangement. An extraordinary loin of very rare lamb artfully served aside beautiful wild mushrooms with a bright splash of green 'chlorophyll'; the very appearance of which screams organic. You almost wish to apologize for destroying this construction, its muted colors making it seem ethereal. Then there is the wonderfully prepared mackerel served with a tangy puree of fennel; then the two tiny pieces of quail with a frisée salad; and then comes an extraordinary foie gras served with those luscious grapefruit wedges and swimming in caramel water. We are continuously reminded of the sea, perhaps because of the undulating white dishes that reappear from time to time. While silver is continuously refreshed, the service never seems intrusive, merely effusive. While all the dishes stand on their own, a pork belly with Sichuan peppercorns, long pieces of scallion, and thinly-sliced jalapeños sent us back to Sichuan, where the most clever chefs are tested on the authenticity and innovativeness of their huai gwo rou. Chef Genovart clearly excels in all these respects; you would be remiss to skip this marvelous dish. End your meal with either a cheese course or perhaps with either the lovely tarte tatin or fascinating grilled strawberries, presented as cylinders with a delightful and refreshing ginger granita with eucalyptus. For a couple embarking on a culinary journey, Degustation is your place. For a group, ensure you are sitting at the corner of the long bar so you can make eye contact with each other.

Tags: degustation, grace lamb, jack lamb, wesley Genovart

Dining Review: Boqueria

Chef Seamus Mullen creates a seductive menu of plates of various sizes that recall his years in Spain, at this restaurant named after the famous market in Barcelona. Featuring a selection of tapas, raciones (entrée sized plates), media raciones (smaller plates), and compartir (shared plates), Boqueria understands that sometimes you don't just want to graze; you want a full-sized entree. At a reasonable $6 per plate, the tapas feature the usual standards (croquetas, patatas bravas, pimientos, tortilla española), plus terrific grilled lamb, salt cod fritters, and dates stuffed with almonds and cabrales, wrapped in bacon. Chef Mullen's best-known dishes include: Cochinillo Lechal (quartered roasted suckling pig in a sauce of Brandy and reduced apple cider), Huevo y Pisto (olive oil poached free-range hen’s egg on a seasonal vegetable pisto), Calcots (grilled spring onions in romesco, topped with melted Garrotxa cheese), and Salmorejo Cordobes (chunky gazpacho thickened with hard-boiled eggs and day old bread, served with avocado and crab meat florette). For those with a heartier appetite, the raciones run from a great lamb shank to a fairly standard free-range chicken as well as a beautiful New York strip with a gorgeous array of grilled vegetables. And the prime rib for two served with a few tapas on the side—at a decidely un-tapas price near $70—pays homage to the steak house, which along with such small-plates venues as Boqueria is king of Manhattan dining today. Clearly Boqueria has all the bases covered. The bar scene is lively, and weekend nights are particularly packed with a mixed crowd. The communal table at the middle of the dining room—with its serene lighting and minimalist design—is a nice place to enjoy a few dishes in the company of others, who while seated shoulder-to-shoulder are generally unintrusive. In this previously undistinguished space, Mullen and company clearly devised an instant success, one well-deserved.

Tags: flatiron district, seamus mullen, tapas