Dining Review: Gordon Ramsay at the London

Three-star Michelin ranked Gordon Ramsay now has his first venue on this side of the Atlantic at the London NYC (formerly the Rihga Royal hotel), featuring intimate modern French dining that takes cues from its renowned London counterpart. The casual bar area of the restaurant, The London Bar, is based on Ramsay’s exciting Maze restaurant on Grosvenor Square in London, featuring daily specials as well as a variety of tasting dishes that allow guests to design their own menus in a relaxed and informal environment.

Designed by internationally acclaimed designer David Collins, the space combines classic British style with Manhattan verve. The dining room seats a mere 45, keeping with the current trend of minimal seating and lavish menu selections such as at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon at the Four Seasons. The bar and casual area seat 95, and expanding on Le Cirque's new high-end bar dining concept, tea service will be available in addition to breakfast, lunch and dinner. As at the Four Seasons, signature dishes are also be available from room service. (Full menus are available on the restaurant's website.) A splendid addition for which Ramsay is well-known in London is the Chef's Table in the kitchen. Moreover, three private dining rooms respectively seat 70, 50 and 20 guests.

Chef de cuisine Neil Ferguson, formerly head chef under Angela Hartnett at The Connaught, was formerly sous chef at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. Ferguson previously worked at numerous three Michelin-starred restaurants including L’Espérance and L’Arpège in France.

So in this year of multiple top-tier openings, how does Ramsay’s London distinguish itself? Ramsay seems to be all about the jewel box: in decor, in plates and in silverware placed on western version of the chopstick holder. The space itself resonates opulence yet lacks the dynamic tension of its other hotel counterparts—whether Le Cirque 2.0 or Robuchon or (pure speculation here) Alan Yau’s forthcoming Park Chinois.

In a departure from usual procedure, we focus here entirely on dining in the bar area, and specifically on the tiny plates for which Ramsay is well-known. For while this prevailing trend of miniature gastronomy continues to delight New Yorkers, Ramsay’s food has a range of resonances, and as at Robuchon some small dishes clearly stand out, whereas others are merely agreeable: Salad of globe artichokes with truffle mayonnaise and rock chives delights, as does a powerful squash risotto with a truly heavenly taste. (One really wants to try more of it as the portion is a mere four tablespoons.) Ramsay’s BLT amazes—although the novelty of this concept has clearly worn off—with tomato gelée, bacon and onion cream and a lettuce velouté in a martini glass. A white onion velouté with duck ragoût and shaved pèrigord truffle with truffles impresses even more for its complex flavors, yet marinated beetroot with ricotta, pine nut and cabernet sauvignon dressing seems rather pedestrian, indeed with too much ricotta.

More meaty offerings include a quite good lamb cutlet with braised neck, cos lettuce, bacon, onions and ras el hanout as well as beef “tongue ‘n’ cheek” with caper and raisin purée, ginger carrots, both quite hearty and featuring contrastingly spiced and flavored meats. A twice cooked poussin with prune purée and foie gras velouté is also worth a try.

Seafood selections include a Maine lobster and confit chicken Caesar salad with parmesan shavings which was rather good but not overwhelming. A Pacific halibut with squid, creamed cauliflower, spiced beef and braised leeks offers a stunning combination, with this marvelous piece of fish topped with chopped squid and the flavorful slow-cooked beef underneath. The Nantucket Bay scallops roasted with spices, golden raisin purée and cauliflower beignets has a succulent marriage of flavors. Finally, the hearty roasted brill with provençale cockle vinaigrette and pesto truly impresses, probably New York’s most exquisite tapa at present.

Multiple Ramsay sightings made for a most enjoying evening, and the wine list featured some intriguing selections, mostly north of $100. Given the rather lackluster service, we omitted coffee and desserts, though it is worth noting the desserts fetch an average price—nowhere near the heavy-hitting items at Le Cirque or Robuchon. Somehow the vanilla rice pudding, Valrhona chocolate fondant, and peanut butter and cherry jam sandwich with salted nuts and cherry sorbet struck us as a tad pedestrian.

Look for a full review of the multi-course chef’s menus at a future date.

Tags:   four seasons, gordon ramsay, joel robuchon, le cirque, london nyc, neil ferguson

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Posted on 11/21/2006 ( Permanent Link )
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