Dining Review: InTent

New SoHo and Nolita dining venues take their page from Cicero's Orator, aiming to teach and to delight. But what exactly do they wish to teach? A bit of sophistry: how ethnic dining can be modified the way a sauce can be reduced, to a thick essence that doesn't exactly resemble the original components. Among this crop of new arrivals, InTent is surely the most instructive exemplar. For delight it does, but in the way of the sophist. InTent's style is sweet, fluent and copious; wine flows freely, the guests are delighted by their surroundings, and the atmosphere is of hushed tranquility. From its charming façade, entirely of glass doors, the diner is beckoned in from Mott Street. Like so many of the surrounding shoe stores or even Cafe Gitane or Ciao Bella up the street, this conceit is a tried and true one, yet it continues to work. Gaze upon that delightful banquette along the northern wall, surrounded by earthy tones in this well-lit and airy room with an inviting bar that features an intriguing bottle display (another well-known conceit). For a relaxing afternoon lunch, we recommend sitting in the café section by the oversized glass doors at front.

But the dramatic action at night takes place in the tent at rear. Guests are led past the narrow kitchen, where chef Craig Freeman, a veteran of Le Cirque 2.0, can be seen assembling dishes from his delightful menu that successfully marries the downtown hankering for innovative cuisine along with some traditional fare albeit with unusual and creative touches. This rear space is both warm and inviting, where a rather dreamy Moroccan mood has been conjured up, replete with water cascading gently over a wall of stones, a number of oversized bronze platters on the walls, and a massive and lengthy table dividing the two sides of the dining room. Think subdued elegance meets new-millennium exotica, assisted by the canopy above and waterfall at rear. It's pure sophistry, of course, for the menu contains few enough Moroccan elements (e.g. "Moroccan mojito") that we'll just call it brasserie hybrid. Fortunately, the ornamentation ends with the decor, and the menu is both superb and clearly fluent. In the words of Cicero, "Some spend their labor on smoothness and uniformity, and on what we may call a pure and clear style." That exactly seems to encapsulate Freeman's style. For starters, a warm eggplant tart topped with thin strips of zucchini and a tomato compote has a harmonious balance of subtle flavors. The tart's crust is exactly what you would expect from François Payard, master of pâtisserie: flaky, buttery and perfectly baked. A warm curried crab Napoleon has a hint of exoticism, masterfully layered and delightful on a hot summer evening. The monkfish mousse is a tour de force, a superb ballon served in an oversized glass, with an artfully-prepared tomato gelee at bottom and a wedge of grilled country bread vertically inserted into the mousse. It's one of the most sophisticated yet deceptively uncomplicated appetizers appearing on any menu today. Starters are accompanied by delightful country bread served with three tangy and tasty spreads, all based on Mediterranean ingredients like chickpeas, olives and parsley.

As you enjoy your wines—there is a fine selection—the surroundings become a bit more exotic. Think Scheherazade or Salome as your eyes focus on that enormous table, with its intricate chessboard design and Moroccan-style lanterns atop it. (The New Yorker in you wonders when this will disappear in order to accommodate five more tables of four; after all, Nolita rents are at a premium these days.) Your server, wearing a long-sleeve brown t-shirt (that truthfully would be more appropriate in a restaurant about half this price) then arrives with the astounding main courses. For example, a Branzino Cassolette that appears shockingly simple, a plain filet of white-fleshed fish atop an onion marmalade with just a few slices of roma tomatoes on top. But its flavor is extraordinary, and as you dig more deeply through the dish, the true power of the oratory becomes clear: you've been completely swayed by its subtlety and sweet flavor. A grilled Black Angus steak also has this power, served with superb crispy panisse fries and a tasty caper-herb sauce. Those slow braised pork ribs also work a particular magic, what with a honey-coriander glaze and a small dish of apple-date chutney to accompany them. The skilled orator's honey-dripping words described by Cicero are transformed here into both a delightful visual display where every morsel is delicious. Preserved lemon couscous and black olive crushed potatoes are two side dishes you will want to taste for their intricate yet refined piquancy. The one tip of the hat to Morocco, tagine-style eggplant, does again underscore how the preparation of authentic Moroccan dishes in a city with many North African immigrants seems elusive. Where is that authentic tagine?

Although the evening dessert menu after dinner could use a bit more tweaking, as the offerings are mostly fruit-based and seemingly rather uninspiring, they nevertheless are artfully prepared and visually most attractive. The warm dark chocolate tart is utterly divine, its free-flowing contents flow lavalike upon piercing the marvelous crust.

Tips: order an additional dessert from the café menu, when possible. A late lunch of Croque Monsieur or Niçoise Pan Bagnat along with iced mint tea is most refreshing.

Tags:   cafe gitane, craig freeman, francois payard, french, intent, le cirque, mediterranean, moroccan, nolita, soho

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Posted on 8/2/2006 ( Permanent Link )
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