Dining Review: Centovini

Into the evermore-complex SoHo world of precious gastronomy comes some useful transparency with Murray Moss' Centovini, yet another Manhattan Italian name evocative like so many others of what one might stand to receive. Chelsea has its insipid Lasagna Ristorante, the West Village has its yawning Trattoria Spaghetto, and now SoHo has Centovini, its purveyor of 100 wines, with an attractive glassed-in shop adjacent to the dining room.

As you might expect, every detail appears to have received thorough vetting with that resilient Moss "determination to transform the public perception of industrial product design." In other words, if you admire the gorgeous lighting (think colorful glass), or the sedate gray tables with industrial chairs or the plush white bar stools, you might ask if purchase can be arranged. With waitstaff clad in those characteristic Moss t-shirts, a certain casual air is immediately established; in fact, service can be described as discrete or indifferent, depending on your point of view. On repeated visits both early and late, we found that however busy Centovini might be, the service remained consistently aloof except at the bar, where pleasant banter about the wines on offer makes for a charming atmosphere. And then there is the ladder which conveniently swings up and down the bar so that bottles high atop can be fetched. Form over function: Red wine at high restaurant altitude plus hot temperatures equals corked bottles in winter.

Although portions are rather modest, even by Italian standards, we found no flaws with the food. A charming calamari starter was prepared to perfection, and Salumi plate of prosciutto, rosette and speck we sampled was robust and at perfect temperature. In place of a meat or cheese platter, you might perhaps choose a salad or pasta dishes such as raviolini alla ortiche. Fish dishes were quite pleasing, a dish of roast pork with broccoli rabe was tender and succulent, though perhaps a tad salty. Veal cheeks with cannellini puree and baby carrots was superb, achieving all the right hamonious balances.

But given this level of informality, the prices seem a trifle too high, especially the decidely-pedestrian desserts. Instead you would be wise to head to Will Goldfarb's nearby Room 4 Dessert, where for the same price you can receive a platter of utterly dazzling and truly extraordinary confections. Of course, locally-sourced ingredients as well as all those Italian fixtures do cost good money, but it seems SoHo exuberance has translated into an overpriced menu. Tip: the young and trendy tend to sample several wines by the glass at the bar; their older counterparts gravitate more towards the tables and a full meal.

One unfulfilled desire: Were the oversized Centovini logos plastered on the attractive glass windows along Houston Street a trifle smaller, it might be possible to actually look out on this wonderful stretch of New York and watch the world pass by while enjoying those terrific Italian wines.

Tags:   centovini, murray moss, room 4 dessert, will goldfarb

© All rights reserved.

Posted on 7/24/2006 ( Permanent Link )
 Send to Friend