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  Chef_Pierre

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The Manhattan gourmand discovers new NYC restaurants 

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Dining Review: Harry's Café & Harry's Steak



To the legendary India House building comes executive chef Patrick Vaccariello of Maloney & Porcelli fame with a stunning menu in both the café and adjacent steakhouse. Given the immense population growth of Financial District residents in recent years, Harry's has immediately drawn in both the Wall Street crowd and these new lower Manhattan hipsters. With an attractively redesigned bar area along with semicircular nook that provides a glassed-in view of the café, Wall Streeters flock to the handsome bar for its wide variety of spirits, wines and beers on tap. The café, while sedate and informal, has that Wall Street air of authority about it. The wide range of dishes sit well with any crowd, whether selecting shellfish by the piece, classic appetizers such as crispy oysters and shrimp bisque or clever innovations like lobster spring rolls and Hibachi-style kabobs of chiptole shrimp and dry-aged sirloin. A variety of salads and sandwiches caught our eye—in particular, a lump crab, avocado and tomato salad, a lobster club, and clever Kobe Hot Dog. The café's main courses feature several signature dishes, such as curried lamb stew, crackling pork shank and dry-aged strip steak on the bone. In addition, the organic four-egg omelette, a filet mignon stroganoff and several fish dishes vied for our attention.

For those seeking a slightly more formal or serene dining experience, the 75-seat steakhouse offers elegant service and fine dining that make's Harry's the new steakhouse to watch. For you'll find all the steakhouse classics you would expect in addition to some sensational innovations. Whether roasted clams with pancetta crumbs, house made Canadian bacon, or a filet mignon carpaccio, the steakhouse appetizers sizzle. One is struck how the new Harry's pays homage to the Harry's of yesteryear; the wine list has a tremendous selection for any budget, including a great variety of California reds as well as an impressive selection of European, Australian and South American wines as well as Champagne. Obviously a list with so many American magnums as well as fine French selections speaks to the current joyously ebullient mood on Wall Street, yet the vast array of choices prepares you for the terrific main courses. A generous Kobe beef burger, a fine dry-aged rib steak, a grilled triple-cut Berkshire pork chop stand out, as do the splendid dry aged porterhouse for two, the double American lamb chops and jumbo Maine lobster. Seafood dishes round out the steakhouse menu, along with great sides that range from the classic hash browns and salt crusted baked potato to the splendid Harry's peas and bacon and sautéed escarole with white beans and prosciutto. One of the Financial District's best-kept secrets is the semi-private dining at Harry's Steak, where a number of small tables off the main dining room create a truly intimate setting suitable both for power business deals as well as a romantic meal. As you would expect, these are the most requested seats in the house. Finally, do not omit pastry chef Eric Bedoucha's innovative desserts and pastries, which are well-paired with the terrific selection of Port and Sauternes, whether by the bottle or glass.

The new Harry's obviously caters to a well-heeled crowd that demands a high level of sophistication, and the servers are absolutely eager to please. Of all the recent arrivals in the crowded steakhouse category, Harry's gets our highest marks.


Tags:   harrys cafe, harrys steak, india house, maloney and porcelli, patrick vaccariello


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Posted on 7/14/2006 ( Permanent Link )
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