Dining Review: Tabla

For a truly unique take on the already vast tableau of flavors from the Indian subcontinent pop into the Bread Bar at Tabla and dip your naan into some chutney.

Some call it “Nouvelle Delhi” or “Haut-Indian”; neither "classification" fully convey the crafty blend of flavors & textures that emerge from the Tabla kitchen.There are other Indian venues in the city that offer fine dining in the “New Indian” style, but Tabla can boast modern dishes and flavor experiences not found elsewhere; the result is a menu one can immediately bond with.

Chef Floyd Cardoz, originally from Bombay (Mumbai), weaves into a fine tapestry the many strands of flavor integral to Sub-continental cuisine, including a taste of Goa.

Notes on Goa: On the western coast of India, Goa was at one time a Portuguese colony, and an important port in the trade and distribution of spices.Stylistically, the religious art and architecture of Goa reflects Portuguese models embroidered with local preferences for color and decoration. The same is true of the cuisine. Portuguese elements, such as the use of sherry and a preference for seafood stews, meet traditional Indian cooking techniques and spice mixtures. The result is a very distinctive regional cuisine.

On the lower level, the Bread Bar at Tabla offers first-come, first-serve seating, along with an array of breads, chutneys and raita for tasting. Among the most interesting are the cheese Kulcha (naan bread stuffed with cheddar cheese and red peppers), the makai ki roti (mustard seed and garlic corn bread), the mango chutney and the Bhoodni raita (organic yogurt with crispy chickpea dumplings) and the Bread Bar ceviche (with Thai flavors). Other small plates on offer onion rings bread with chickpea flour and cornmeal, saag paneer pizza (creamed spinach and goat cheese on roti bread), and coconut pilaf.

Upstairs, one can enjoy more formal dining. Here, the best bet is the tasting menu. On offer are highlights of Chef Cardoz’ exploration into the world of spice: hamachi and striped bass cru (with apple sorbet and aple ginger salsa), squab served with squash puree and spiced quince jus, Tabla’s crab cakes (with Tamarind chutney), seared foie gras (with candied ginger & bacon), and a variety of seasonal courses. Flavors ranging from saffron and tamarind to Key lime and maple add color and complexity to each dish.

The space here is sensual in a warm and earthy way. The staircase leading to the upper dining room is both EmpireState grand yet open and welcoming. That welcome feeling and earthiness give Tabla a distinctive edge. If you are looking for Tandoori and a great glass of wine in an elegant setting, you can’t go wrong with Tabla.

Tabla also features a notable wine list, as well as a fine selection of beers and spirits.

Tags:   Chef Floyd Cardoz, game meat, Indian cuisine, notable wine list, Tabla

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Posted on 12/11/2006 ( Permanent Link )
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