Dining Review: August Restaurant

If urban rustic in the heart of the Village is what you crave, there is no better venue than Tony Liu’s August Restaurant. The street level entrance embraces guests with a warm, low slung dining room hug, narrow in that way the local architecture allows. The bar dominates the left of the room, while all attention is focused on the passage way leading to the back atrium-like room, half patio, half cottage nook.

The overall ambience is casual, even hip, but still elegant – no bowling shirts on the staff here, but no pretense either. August is designed to be enjoyed; the staff are friendly and helpful, if not colorful. One server addressed us as “youse”, that Brooklyn equivalent of “ya’ll”, a smile-bringing moment.

The menu casts its eyes towards the Mediterranean, but takes a peep at Alsace, Vienna, Provence and Hungary along the way. The wood fired oven somehow brings everything together with its smoke, from the tarte flambé (an homage to the fair onion) to the slow roasted halibut.

Appetizers tend to be the most alluring offerings on the menu, so don’t skip them. Nor should you skip the “theme specials”, such as sardines, served three ways. On our recent visit, the sardines came stuffed with chorizo, or pan-seared with lemon and sea salt, or wrapped in grape leaves and grilled. Three ways to love that little fish.

Surprises lurk everywhere, from the lemon horseradish mousse and red and yellow beets served with the artic char, to the lovingly prepared whole orata, celebrating Italy, and the fish souvlaki, Athenian-style. A big surprise, and one we adored, was the Greek yogurt mousse with blueberry topping. Slightly salty, the yogurt provided that eastern Mediterranean antidote to sweltering summer heat, and the blueberries, sweet and cool, were the perfect balance. Chocolate lovers will melt into the warm pot of chocolate.

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In warmer months, the heartier entrees lean more towards Eastern Europe, but choose carefully and look for smoky choices – they are the best on offer.

The wine list is nicely thought out, and features an array of wines from he Mediterranean, Western, Central and Eastern Europe. Easy to pair and easy to enjoy.

Note: No reservations accepted at this cottage of savory pleasures,
so pop in and put your name on the list.

Tags:   anti glam, August Restaurant, babette free zone, fish souvlaki, no reservations, smoky flavors, Tony Liu

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Posted on 8/14/2006 ( Permanent Link )
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