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Dining Review: Bond Street
Tucked away on Bond Street, above a busy lounge of the same name, Bond Street the restaurant occupies the first two floors of what looks like a discreet townhouse. No signs glow; there is only the silent portal. But inside, Bond Street hums with conversation, its minimalist interior of dark and light geometry turning the long rectangular space into a fabulous dining hall. Banquettes and tables intended to evoke a certain Japanese aesthetic cradle diners as service staff in the ubiquitous all-black downtown uniform sweep through in waves. Pulsating world beat music keeps the dining room chattering.
The menu, like the interior design, is based on Japanese standards. But this is not meant to be just another sushi house with a California roll accompanying the chicken teriyaki. There is no teriyaki. Appetizers include the pan-seared tuna and foie gras, wagyu tataki (kobe beef pan seared in truffle butter), and octopus sashimi. Everything is delicately handled, the miso glaze on the lamb chops providing just the right kiss or flavor without the cloying aftertaste that often accompanies glazed meat in this city.
The small selection of rolls features eel, spicy tuna and lobster, all nicely prepared and very flavorful, although not breath-taking. The desserts are quite large – easily shared – and feature the very popular “chocolate meltdown”, fruit sorbets and an interesting crème brulee pleasingly presented if not somewhat of a challenge to mange on the plate.
The presentation of each dish is clean and artful, from plating to delivery. The only issue is the noise level, which forces the service staff to bend down and speak directly into the diners’ ears, which can be awkward, especially when chopsticks are involved.
The wine list features a solid selection of New and Old World reds and whites, champagnes, and an extensive saki list.
While not cheap, this is an affordable venue to experience high-quality sushi and some new takes on old standards like braised short ribs and the lobster roll.
Notes: The upstairs dining room is les nosy than the downstairs, so if you are out with your beloved or are on a first date, ask for the upper floor.
Tags:
glam, kobe beef, saki, sush
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Posted on 7/17/2006
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