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  Adanna

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Brooklyn, Greenpoint
In NYC Since: 1996

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When I was born, my father remarked that I was as beautiful as a speckled trout. I now know what that means. 

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Thanksgiving: Notes for the Non-Traditional


In a few short days, we will be sitting down to feast on turkey, green bean casserole, candied yams, and canned cranberry sauce.

Or will we?

In our house, we have opted for guinea hen (much smaller), haricot verts with mushrooms, spicy yams and homemade cranberry sauce. For us, cooking a whole turkey is a waste of natural resources – we need a smaller bird, and the diminutive guinea hen has many wonderful characteristics that make it a perfect turkey substitute. The history of this African bird in western cuisine reaches back to ancient Greece and Rome where it was a highly prized trade item. Supplanted centuries later by the turkey (which was named not for its North American home but rather for the Turkish traders who introduced it to northern Europe) the guinea hen was all but forgotten, especially in North America. Yet this tasty fowl has long played a role in
Mediterranean cookery, and is often prepared with lemon and orange, or with mushrooms and cream. Guinea hens normally weigh between three and five pounds, making them the right size for a small gathering in a Brooklyn apartment.

Green Bean Casserole?

While I do remember fondly the green bean casserole of my youth (I can see my mother now, with her “secret” recipe: Campbell’s Cream o’ Mushroom Soup, 1 can French style green beans and one can of Durkeefried onions), I have developed my own version of this dish, using fresh haricot verts (slender green beans), Crimini mushrooms, Vidalia onions and mascarpone. It’s the same idea, but the ingredients are fresh and the mushrooms much tastier. The only ting to watch is the mascarpone, which can break down if the heat is too high, so add it just before serving, and then top it off with the onions. Crème fraiche is also good, but harder to find.

Candied Yams? With marshmallows?

No. I refuse to eat candied yams with marshmallows. But I am a yam fan. I prefer to cook them with something picante, like a dash of cayenne pepper or some ground pumpkin seeds with a small sampling of habaneros (be careful here!). For some people, the texture of the yam is problematic. The best way to get around the yam-o-phobes is to dice them into big chunks and roast them, but don’t over-roast them.

Canned cranberry sauce?

Not in my house. I refuse to eat that tubular hunk of gelatinous ooze. I go right to the cranberries themselves and cook them the day before, with sugar and orange zest. If you must have the gelatinous ooze, you can strain the cranberries after cooking and make your own. It’s very easy and tastes so good. It sounds like a lot of work, but it isn't.

What if I don’t want any of that?


For the Fire Lovers:
My brother prefers to grill sausage and to serve ham, usually a smoked variety, and follows up with grilled vegetables. This approach appeals to the crypto-pyromaniac who grills year round.

For the Lively:
My Cuban friends make a spicy turkey, and serve it with some tostones, a great dish for those who find the traditional American way of doing things "analati", or too bland. The spicy turkey, which is rubbed down with a generous portion of adobo and other spices, has an aroma that will get your feet tapping.

For the Fish Lovers:
My husband prefers bouillabaisse, and a sampling
of shellfish – hard to pull off if you’re not near a first-class seafood market. Monkfish prepared in the traditional Brittany style is also very good, and an elegant dish to serve for a later, lighter meal.

For the Procrastinators:
Roast beef or roast rack of lamb are also good alternatives if you can't stand poultry, or if you get to the store too late to get a bird that isn't frozen rock-solid.

The whole idea is to prepare a meal share and to think about what you have to be thankful for. This has been a rough year for lots of Americans, especially along the Gulf Coast. In honor of all those who lost so much, I suggest a donation to one of the charities working to rebuild lives and livlihoods.

.


Tags:   alternatives, thanksgiving, turkey


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Posted on 11/21/2005 ( Permanent Link )
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